Destinations Of Distinction
The Last Of Luxury
By Nancy & J. Walman
Modern life, full of its hustle and bustle, has left little in the way of comfort for its harried participants. Gone are the days of affordable luxury. The Crystal Champagne and caviar of yesteryear have given way to change, as First class air travel has been devalued to little more than a larger seat. Few hotels still offer the service and amenities of bygone days. And unless one’s wallet is fat enough to support $300, $500, or more per person, haute-dining remains but a dream. Service, it seems, has given way to the The Breathtaking Lobby Of the Meurice.
Are we approaching the days when only the rich will be able to travel, using private jets, keeping apartments in the world’s major cities, and hosting a staff to fulfill their every desire? Relax. For the trip of a lifetime, mortgage the house, hock the family jewels and enjoy one of the world’s great cities in style while you still can. In a world of orange alerts, who has time to worry about tomorrow?
Where can one find this last bastion of style and taste? Paris, of course. The land of the Louvre and Montmatre stills plays host to some of life’s little luxuries, available to even the humblest of travelers. And of course, if you’ve got the money to burn, you’ll find that in this city, you can still have your heart’s desire. However, standing between Paris and the rest is one transcontinental flight. We chose Continental, although choice of airline matters little. Business/First class on Continental yielded little more than “warmed-nuts”, not smoked salmon, and the wine selection was shameful. Food was copious and pedestrian. The fully extendable sleeper seat, highly touted as an innovation by the airline, proved to be acceptable but was not necessarily a plus. In-flight service was excellent on the outbound flight (although performed in a routine and perfunctory manner on returning from the continent).
On arrival, it’s time to ignore the trans-Atlantic survival flight, and make an entrance in style. For glamour, we endorse Paris Major Limousines. In business for the last fifteen years, the company boasts bilingual, trained drivers and a sizable fleet of Mercedes Benz cars, ranging from the E-class to the six-door luxury limousine. Bookings can be done on-line at http://www.paris-limousines.fr/ or via phone. A typical airport transfer from Charles De Gaulle to the center of the city costs from $134 ($165 in a Mercedes); from hotel to the railway station would be in the range of $62.
Moving onward from the airport, for accommodations we recommend the five-star Hôtel Meurice. Operating since 1771, the hotel has played host to some the world’s finest dignitaries and celebrities. Finding favor amongst the British Elite in the 1800’s, the hotel earned the nickname “City of London” due to its English-speaking staff, and has since seen guests such as President Franklin Delano Roosevelt, Robert DeNiro, Elizabeth Taylor, the Dukes of Windsor, and the ruler of Thailand. In 2000, the hotel reopened after a two-year renovation by current owners the Dorchester group, restoring the building to its original splendor as a classic symbol of French elegance.
The Meurice by Night
Upon entering the hotel, travelers are instantly greeted by the smell of roses, the gorgeous green and white marble floors, and the gleam of the lobby’s gold leaf. Accommodations consist of the elegantly appointed Marco Polo Suite, or one of the other 159 rooms. Precious woods, rare silk, and Italian marble accent the décor, with a collection of antiques and art procured from Christie’s and Sotheby’s, continuously updated by the hotel.
The Remarkable Marco Polo Suite
Thankfully, only improvements have been made to this living monument of French history and class which would make the hotel’s founder, Charles-Augustin Meurice, proud. By maintaining the hotel’s elaborate floors, hand-carved moldings, cornices, columns, pilasters, and greyhound logo, they faithfully preserved the Meurice’s original architectural details and spirit as a splendid French palace. In keeping with the grand façade, the hotel is filled with a collection of exquisite antiques and art from Sotheby’s and Christie’s, which is continually replenished. With the help of the hotel’s exceptional staff, the Meurice’s reputation is assured as one of Europe’s most famous hotels. “The people on our staff are known for their exceptionally friendly, courteous service,” says General Manager Dominique Borri. “Now, with the technological advances made possible by the sweeping renovation, the staff is able to provide an even higher and more personal level of attentive, caring service.”
Amenities
Not All Baths are Created Equal
160 uniquely adorned rooms populate the seven floors of this palace; each is a perfectly conceived retreat, with fine furnishings and luxurious fabrics.
The first floor houses the two 18th Century Louis XVI influenced Presidential Suites. These spaces are furnished with one-of-a-kind masterpieces, parquet floors of aged woods and rugs and stunning views of the Tuileries Gardens and the inner courtyard. Nine rooms can be connected to form one private 5,380 square-foot apartment. Butler service is available upon request, and the rooms are soundproofed for ultimate privacy. The majority of the second and third floors are more streamlined, and well-suited to business travelers save the Castiglione wing of the third floor, which pays certain homage to Napoleon. The fourth and fifth floors are in a light expression of Louis XVI style, emphasizing floral motifs. The décor alludes to the Petit Trianon at Versailles as well as the Tuileries Gardens. The sixth-floor is a dormer floor, very intimate and distinctly Parisian in style. Of note on the 6th floor is the unique, triangular-shaped Marco Polo Suite from the Napoleonic period. Fabrics in very soft shades of blue drape from the ceiling to cover the walls; a wood parquet design covers the floor. The bathroom is open and spacious, with an antique-style bathtub and a magnificent floor of stone marquetry that combines Rose marble of Portugal and boxwood. The stunning seventh-floor, La Belle Etoile Suite, features a 360-degree view of Paris. The suite includes a foyer, sitting room, dressing area, gallery, white marbled bathroom, a round Jacuzzi bath tub, and a back office that can be used as a kitchen or butler’s quarters. All rooms feature the expected modern amenities such as a minibar, safety deposit box, television, phone and Internet, as well as nods to the palace’s history in the antique doorknobs and window knobs featuring the Meurice’s greyhound logo.
The Spa
Espace Bien-Etre, the hôtel’s Spa and Fitness Center located on the mezzanine, surrounds an inner courtyard full of natural light and greenery. The Spa features Caudalie treatments and products and specially trained masseuses from Les Sources de Caudalie, the world’s first “vinotherapie” spa. There are separate changing rooms for men and women, each with sauna, steam bath, showers, and toilets.
Le Meurice, The Formal Restaurant
Once settled, lunch was had in the hotel’s Restaurant Le Meurice. The restaurant’s prix fixe menu offers patrons a choice of appetizers, including such French masterpieces as coarse game terrine, a dense and delicious terrine of foie gras, or breast of pheasant in a truffle consommé. The main courses consist of a delicately prepared meat or seafood, such as the Lamb from Occitaine accompanied by turnips and vegetables or a superb Bresse chicken that must be ordered in advance and is served for two. Desserts are delectable, and include choices such as an airy coffee soufflé or pear on gingerbread with fennel sorbet. Prices range from 25 to 240 Euros.
The Elegant Alain Ducasse Restaurant
Day two showcased another of the city’s culinary masterpieces, mere steps from the Champs Elysées. One of the city’s jewels, Restaurant Plaza Athénée plays host to France’s top chef Alain Ducasse, where his culinary delights are presented in the ornate style of Louis XV. Diners can partake of such delicacies as black truffle in a winter salad, Brittany lobster in a thin crunchy tart with royal osetra caviar, or petit bateau sole ” viennoise ” style. Menu will vary according to season; dinner prices range from 190 to 250 Euros, or diners can purchase à la carte.
Another option lies in the storied Le Grand Véfour. An institution since the 18th century, the restaurant is presently owned by Jean Taittinger, of the Taittinger Champagne family, and led by chef Guy Martin. Boasting
Le Grand Véfour
a three-star Michelin rating, the restaurant sits under the elegant arcades of the Palais-Royal, in the heart of the Right Bank. Diners, surrounded by crimson velvet banquettes, gilded mirrors and romantic paintings, can enjoy such prime cuisine as a confit of Bresse chicken served on Limoges china. An average meal, excluding wine, will cost approximately 250 Euros.
For those looking for a taste of the French everyday, or just looking to ease the strain on their wallet, taking a step back from the excess of the hotels may prove to be worthwhile. There are two notable options- classic brasseries with just the right flair.
Brasserie Flo
The first, Brasserie Flo, was founded by refugees from Alsace fleeing from German rule in 1871. Introducing to France a style similar to that of German beer halls, reflected in the dark wood paneling and stained glass decor, the brasserie focused on serving continuous courses. Purchased by Jean Paul Bucher when he was 27, the brasserie opened in 1968, and today serves classics such as filet of sole with baby vegetables. Of similar nature is Julien, which was opened in 1902. Originally built by its owner in a working-class Parisian neighborhood as homage to his Moulin Rouge mistress, the Julien was revived in 1975 by Jean Paul Bucher as part of his Groupe Flo. Restored to its original Belle Époque splendor, the brasserie serves such classic fare as cassoulet and foie gras with lentils.
Julien was revived in 1975
Alas, all good things must come to end. Since luxury has its price, the above itinerary was completed in 2 days. Day one saw lunch at Restaurant Le Meurice, with dinner at Julien and dessert at Brasserie Flo. The second day lunch was had at Restaurant Plaza Athénée, with dinner at Le Grand Vefour. Like Eden, Paris is the land of comfort and splendor. But unlike the former, this is one jardin to which we can and will return.
Contributing Writers & Editors izumi tezuka, Robert Finton, Lucy Genero, Christie Hangey
Copyright 2008 by Punch In International® News Syndicate
www.punchin.com E-Mail: info@punchin.com
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